Asian and European Plum: Prunus
Blueprint Michael Payne Blueprint Michael Payne

Asian and European Plum: Prunus

Why doesn't plum have an essential oil? Explore the chemistry of European (Prunus domestica) and Chinese (Prunus salicina) plums, discover why their aroma cannot be captured through conventional extraction, and learn how GC-MS analysis, aroma chemistry, and molecular reconstruction allow perfumers to recreate one of fine fragrance's most recognizable fruit accords from an otherwise unextractable fruit.

Read More
Ylang-Ylang — Cananga odorata
Blueprint Michael Payne Blueprint Michael Payne

Ylang-Ylang — Cananga odorata

Why does Ylang-Ylang come in different grades? Explore the science of Cananga odorata, from magnoliid botany and steam distillation to the chemistry behind Extra, Grades I, II, III, and Complete oils. Discover how the molecular fingerprint shifts throughout distillation, creating distinct aromatic profiles that have shaped fine perfumery for more than a century.

Read More
Tomato Leaf - Solanum lycopersicum
Michael Payne Michael Payne

Tomato Leaf - Solanum lycopersicum

Why do tomato leaves smell so distinctive? Explore the science of Solanum lycopersicum, from the glandular trichomes that create its unmistakable aroma to 2-isobutylthiazole, the molecule that transformed modern perfumery. Learn why tomato leaf cannot be distilled into an essential oil and how perfumers faithfully recreate its vivid green scent.

Read More
Ginger - Zingiber officinale
Blueprint Michael Payne Blueprint Michael Payne

Ginger - Zingiber officinale

What gives ginger its unmistakable aroma? Explore the science of Zingiber officinale, including rhizome biology, essential oil production, CO₂ extraction, major aroma compounds, and why ginger remains one of perfumery's most important spice materials.

Read More
Ambergris
Michael Payne Michael Payne

Ambergris

Ambergris is a rare waxy concretion formed in the gastrointestinal tract of the sperm whale. This Warren Study examines how ambergris forms, the chemistry of ambrein, oxidation and aging, the development of its scent, and why ambergris became one of the most important natural materials in perfume.

Read More
Cumin- Cuminum Cyminum
Blueprint Michael Payne Blueprint Michael Payne

Cumin- Cuminum Cyminum

Cumin may be the most celebrated seed in the Apiaceae family, prized for thousands of years in cuisine, medicine, and perfumery. Explore the chemistry of Cuminum cyminum, from essential oil and CO₂ extraction to cuminaldehyde and its role in modern muguet accords, animalic effects, and the warm, human character that master perfumers use under restraint.

Read More
Coconut- Cocos nucifera
Blueprint Michael Payne Blueprint Michael Payne

Coconut- Cocos nucifera

Coconut in perfumery is far more than the fruit itself. The creamy aroma comes from lactones formed as coconut fatty acids oxidize and cyclize, while modern CO₂ extraction preserves aromatic compounds that steam distillation leaves behind. Explore the chemistry, extraction, and perfumery use of Cocos nucifera, and discover why natural coconut remains one of fragrance's most misunderstood materials.

Read More
Petigrain- Bigaradier, Bitter Orange Tree; Citrus x aurantium
Blueprint Michael Payne Blueprint Michael Payne

Petigrain- Bigaradier, Bitter Orange Tree; Citrus x aurantium

The bitter orange tree gives perfumery four distinct materials: bitter orange from the peel, neroli and orange blossom from the flower, and petitgrain from the leaves and young twigs. Often overshadowed by its more famous relatives, petitgrain occupies the space between citrus and green aromatics, carrying a chemistry that has shaped colognes, fougères, and floral compositions for centuries. Explore the extraction, chemistry, and perfumery use of Citrus × aurantium's most overlooked material.

Read More
Orris Root (Iris)
Blueprint Michael Payne Blueprint Michael Payne

Orris Root (Iris)

Most people admire the iris for its flower, yet perfumery values the rhizome hidden beneath the soil. Harvested from Iris pallida, Iris germanica, and Iris florentina, orris requires years of maturation before extraction develops the scent profile that made it one of perfumery's most prized botanical materials. Explore the science, cultivation, and chemistry behind the material known as orris root with the Blueprint here.

Read More
Mint- Lamiaceae Mentha
Michael Payne Michael Payne

Mint- Lamiaceae Mentha

Explore the chemistry of mint in perfumery through Mentha spicata (spearmint) and Mentha × piperita (peppermint). Learn how carvone defines the sweet, green character of spearmint, how menthol creates peppermint's cooling sensation, and why these essential oils play distinct roles in aromatic, citrus, herbal, and fougère fragrance composition.

Read More
Lavandula Angustifolia- True Lavender
Michael Payne Michael Payne

Lavandula Angustifolia- True Lavender

100,000 tons of flowers are harvested each year from the Lavandula species for use in the Perfume industry and favored in fougères. The vast majority (¾) of this is Lavandula Intermedia, or Lavandin, and another ¼ is Lavandula Latifolia (spike lavender). The prettiest of them all is the high elevation Lavandula Angustifolia, the true lavender known as English Lavender.

Read More
Oakmoss (Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach)
Michael Payne Michael Payne

Oakmoss (Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach)

Some materials add character, and then other materials alter structure; oakmoss does both, a lichen extract whose chemistry, restrictions, and replacements tell a larger story about how perfumery evolves.

Read More
Tuberose
Michael Payne Michael Payne

Tuberose

Tuberose was the star of perfumery in the 80s. A flower so narcotic, perfumes using it were banned in restaurants, which only gave it more notoriety. The tiny white flower itself can fill a room with its scent for days.

Here, we explore the history and molecular blueprint for Tuberose and its use in perfumery.

Read More
Cypress
Michael Payne Michael Payne

Cypress

Born in the Permian period millions of years ago, Cypress can grow over 65 feet tall and live for over 500 years. A dual symbol of both immortality for their own longevity, and that of mourning and the afterlife. It’s said that Cyparissus was turned into a cypress tree by Apollo after begging that his grief for his pet stag might last forever. Perfumers reach for the Oil or absolute to give an ozonic, woody freshness to blends.

Read More
Pink Pepper
Michael Payne Michael Payne

Pink Pepper

Pink pepper comes from Schinus molle and Schinus terebinthifolius, South American trees whose berries carry a bright, terpene-rich volatility which makes their scent profile closer to citrus than to true pepper (Piper nigrum).

Read More
Agarwood/Oud
Michael Payne Michael Payne

Agarwood/Oud

Agarwood or Oud is one of the rarest and most expensive raw materials on the planet. But how much do you really know about the tree beyond the fluff marketing that’s just selling FOMO? Let’s dive into some of the lesser-known points and what actually makes it smell the way it does.

Read More